The Pacific Northwest: Seattle and Washington State

Washington State and Seattle: 

Growing up in Virginia and New England, I was always fascinated with the green, wet, northwest corner of the U.S., the farthest away I could travel domestically (barring, of course, Alaska and Hawaii). 

Beyond the fame of Kurt Cobain, Bill Gates, and Jeff Bezos, what makes Seattle such a storied and beloved American city? Why do visitors and residents alike gush about the special, natural beauty of the Evergreen State? Brushing aside warnings about impromptu anarchist communities, COVID, and wet, chilly weather, I set out to discover the Pacific Northwest in January of 2021.

An Armchair Historian on Washington State:  

Puget Sound is a vast, mountain-rimmed, orca whale-inhabited, island-spattered estuary, whose serpentine inlets and coves stretch hundreds of miles into mainland Washington and Canada. The narrow Salish Sea connects Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean, and it’s hemmed in by the jutting Olympic Peninsula and the massive Vancouver Island to the west. Seattle, the largest city in Washington (although not its capital—that would be Olympia), sits on Puget Sound’s eastern shore. 

Shortly after the glaciers that carved out Puget Sound receded (ca. 10,000 BCE), humans—such as the ancestors of the modern-day Nez Perce (tr. Pierced Nose)—arrived in the region. Puget Sound’s Native Americans—characterized by hunting, gathering, and fishing—thrived off the bounty of the temperate rainforests (yes, actual rainforests) and salmon-laden shoals. They created highly complex, semi-nomadic societies that erected towering wooden totem poles displaying bears, eagles, wolves, and other animal spirits that they worshipped.

In the late 16th century, Sir Francis Drake, the notorious seadog who was the bane of colonial Spain with his raids and burnings throughout the Caribbean, was the first European to sail up the west coast of North America and into Puget Sound. Naturally, he claimed the territory for the British Empire. Not long afterward, the Russian Empire dispatched explorers and subsequent colonizers into the region and claimed it for the Czar. To this day, the oldest non-Indigenous settlements in the Northwest bear Russian names. 

The region remained an unsettled frontier into the subsequent two centuries, with Spain and France also vying for control of the territory. After the cartographic missions in the 1790s of explorer Geroge Vancouver, after whom the Canadian province above Washington State is named, Britain effectively cemented its claim to the Pacific Northwest, a.k.a Cascadia. However, it would not be long before Yankee territorial ambitions led to conflict between the two Anglo-North American powers over the Oregon Territory—a vast tract that contains modern-day Washington, Oregon, and Vancouver.

The Treaty of 1818 between the U.S. and Britain demarcated the 49th Parallel as the boundary between the U.S. and Canada. The Oregon Territory would be the exception: it would be jointly governed by the British and Americans, a situation that ultimately would only lead to further conflict. 

President James Polk negotiated the Oregon Treaty with Britain in 1846, affirming the 49th Parallel as the Canadian-American border all the way to the Pacific (although Vancouver Island, which dips below this latitude, remained entirely in British hands). Control over the San Juan Islands in Puget Sound remained contentious for a few more years, resulting in skirmishes between British and American settlers. Eventually, an international committee, led by Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany, agreed to grant the archipelago to Uncle Sam. Washington became the 42nd state of the U.S. in 1889.

One More Oversimplified History: Seattle

In its early days in the mid-19th Century, Seattle was a boom-and-bust town whose growth or demise depended on the timber market, a commodity harvested from the majestic old-growth forests that blanket the Pacific Northwest. Fast-forward to the early 20th century: In the infancy of aviation, William E. Boeing built his first airplane factory in Seattle. Ever since, the Emerald City has headquartered Boeing, one of the largest corporations in the world. The meteoric rise of Microsoft in the 1980s and of Amazon and Expedia in the Aughts solidified Seattle’s present-day status as an international tech hub. The preponderance of techies in Seattle makes it the city with the most advanced degrees per capita in the U.S. (Boston, not surprisingly, is the runner-up for this title).

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Travel in Seattle in Early 2021: 

As of January of 2021, stringent COVID restrictions are the rule. Restaurants are only open for take-out, and almost all the museums in the city are temporarily closed. A handful of restaurants offer outdoor seating, but the cold, rainy weather makes dining outside less appealing. Some Seattle breweries—offering delicious libations as well as victuals—do have comfy, heated outdoor tents. Seattle will re-open in four distinct phases throughout 2021, with the highest risk venues, e.g., spas and nightclubs, opening last. That said, plenty of sightseeing, fun activities, and fabulous food can still be had in Seattle despite COVID protocol. 

Pike’s Place, one of the most famous farmer’s markets in the U.S., is still open. Even though it’s no longer the colorful riot of produce, fish, coffee, gourmet food, and humanity that it was in pre-plague times, you can easily spend 2-3 hours wandering through the multi-leveled market, marveling at fish-mongers’ wares—delicacies like salmon, halibut, and king and dungeness crabs—and discovering quirky vendors. Wander over to the perogy masters at Peroshky Bakery and check out the endless flavors of Salmon jerky at Totem Smokehouse. The world’s first Starbucks, located in the heart of Pike’s Place, is still open (but, let’s be real…Starbucks is probably some of the worst coffee to be had in Seattle). 

Most of Seattle’s museums are temporarily closed, with the notable exception of the Chihuly Garden and Glass, next to the Space Needle in the Seattle Center. Chihuly Garden and Glass is one of the only museums in the country dedicated to one artist, legendary glass sculptor Dale Chihuly. He is the artist who created the iconic glass-flower ceiling at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, and he learned his craft in part from master glassblowers in the great cathedrals of Europe. Dale Chihuly works with glass the same way molecular gastronomist Ferrán Adria works with food: his art is at once bizarre, mind-blowing, and utterly beautiful. This museum was one of the best I’ve visited in any city, and both the indoor and outdoor sections are mesmerizing. 

It takes about 45 minutes to see the artwork inside (a bit longer if you sit for the excellent short film about Chihuly’s work at sacred sites in Jerusalem) and another half an hour to walk through the sculpture gardens. The museum offers a funky outdoor pizzeria that also serves a solid selection of Seattle suds. Tickets are about $18 ($15 with a student ID). 

As for the iconic Space Needle, located right next to the Chihuly Museum, the $35 entrance fee is hardly worth it. If you do ascend the Space Needle, go on a clear day (rare in the winter) that allows for a full view of the Seattle skyline and Puget Sound. The restaurant and bar in the Space Need are temporarily closed. 

An equally stunning view of Seattle’s skyline and Puget Sound can be found at Kerry Park in the Queen Anne Neighborhood. After taking the requisite postcard-worthy photos from the park, the neighborhood is fantastic for a long stroll and is replete with quaint houses and excellent coffee shops nestled alongside streets. The nearby campus of the University of Washington, with its towering evergreens and stately architecture, also makes for another great 1-2 hour walk. 

Food and Drink in Seattle: 

By law in Washington State, dining inside a restaurant is prohibited until later in 2021. Nonetheless, a decent percentage of Seattle’s restaurants offer outdoor seating—a fine alternative as long as covering and heat are provided to protect against the winter elements. 

I found that breweries were usually a safe bet for having outdoor tents and solid food (in addition, of course, to awesome beer). Fremont Brewery and Optimism were two of the best breweries I patronized in Seattle. The “spice wars” beers at Fremont, assorted brews aged in whisky casks, were particularly memorable. 

Given its long-established Japanese community and outrageous abundance of fresh seafood, Seattle arguably offers the best Japanese cuisine in the U.S. You can certainly splurge on high-end, world-class sushi, but you can also find plenty of humbler, more affordable options— especially in Japantown/Chinatown. Check out Fuji Bakery for milk-bread sandwiches, Japanese espresso delights, and pastries laced with ube and matcha. 

A few other gustatory standouts, both affordable and scrumptious: Brothers and Sisters Chicken (be warned: their “mild” chicken is quite hot and their “hot” option is wicked hot) and Biscuit Bitch (killer breakfast sandwiches). 

Caffeine and Cannabinoids: 

Only Melbourne, Australia can vie with Seattle for the title of the most coffee-obsessed city, and Moonshot Coffee and Olympia Coffee were among my coffee shops. Alas, with my short visit and so many beautiful coffee houses temporarily closed, I didn’t scratch the surface of Seattle’s storied coffee culture. 

For those inclined to herbal refreshments, Washington, one of the first legal states in the country, has fantastic weed. By law, all cannabis sold in Washington has to be grown in Washington. Uncle Ike’s has locations throughout the city and sells concentrates, flower, edibles, and other weed-infused products at reasonable prices. Their Polite Sleep Tincture ($50/bottle), a solution of CBD and CBN cannabinoids with a small amount of THC, was the best cannabis product I snagged in Seattle, hands down. The tincture will not get you stoned, but it does induce relaxation and deep, refreshing sleep. One dropper under the tongue melts away lingering anxiety and allows the mind to plunge into the darkest, most restorative recesses of slumber. 

Outside Seattle: 

Anacortes and the San Juan Islands, about two hours northwest of Seattle, are serene PNW maritime towns. Anacortes is the last town on the mainland before the San Juans and where the ferries depart for the numerous islands. It’s not as idyllic or beautiful as the neighboring islands, but it’s charming as an authentic fishing town. While in Anacortes, check out Dad’s Diner for some local beer and delicious down-home fare (their Reuben is particularly exquisite). 

I would recommend 2-3 days for exploring Anacortes and the Islands, but even one day is enough to get a feel for the region. The ferries from the mainland to the numerous islands leave about six times per day—roughly three times in the morning and three times in the afternoon. The ferry schedules can be found on this site. 

Passenger-only ferry tickets cost about $15 roundtrip, and the last ferry from Friday Harbor, one of the most popular towns in the San Juans, back to Anacortes departs around 11 p.m. If you choose to stay in the San Juans overnight, Airbnb seems to be the most economical option.  You can take your car on the ferry, too, but a vehicle-passenger ticket is far more expensive and requires prior reservations. If you choose to leave your car in Anacortes, parking by the ferry terminal costs about $10/day. 

Friday Harbor, an upscale vacation town for wealthy Seattleites but also home to a working-class year-round community, is located on San Juan Island, the largest island of the eponymous archipelago. Located only about six miles from Canada, the island consists primarily of preserved parkland, with sparsely populated beaches and weathered lighthouses speckling its shore. The village of Friday Harbor is small—although there are plenty of interesting stores and galleries to check out. Exploring the larger island, which I understand has fantastic camping, probably warrants a few days. 

While in town, wander over to San Juan Brewing Company on the outskirts of town for a flight and delicious pizza. They have a comfortable, heated tent outside that gets lively as the night progresses. 

Much Farther Outside Seattle: 

Portland, Oregon is about three hours by car from Seattle. The Canadian border, currently closed due to COVID, is about 100 miles from Seattle, and Vancouver—another dazzling North American gem—is about a 2-3 hour drive. For those with extra time and/or wanderlust, there are even passenger ships from Seattle to Alaska, but, according to one fisherman at Pike’s Place, it takes several days to complete this journey.